British, c.1901–1911, Named Royal Navy Officer’s Full Dress Group – Hon. R. C. N. Gathorne-Hardy, R.N. – Bicorn, Epaulettes, Sword Belt and Tin Case, VGC

£995.00

A highly attractive Royal Navy officer’s full dress group, named to Hon. R. C. N. Gathorne-Hardy, R.N., comprising bicorn, epaulettes, sword belt and original transit case.

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*British, c.1901–1911, Named Royal Navy Officer’s Full Dress Group – Hon. R. C. N. Gathorne-Hardy, R.N. – Bicorn, Epaulettes, Sword Belt and Tin Case, VGC*

An attractive and unusual Royal Navy officer’s full dress grouping comprising bicorn hat, pair of bullion epaulettes, full dress sword belt with slings, and original metal transit case, the case named by brass plate to Hon. R. C. N. Gathorne-Hardy, R.N.” The ensemble is very likely attributable to Commander the Hon. Ralph Cecil North Gathorne-Hardy, RN (1876–1911), a younger son of the 2nd Earl of Cranbrook, whose funeral at Benenden was reported in 1912.

The black felt bicorn retains its gold bullion loop, black silk cockade and gilt naval button with Queens Crown to the front, with richly worked bullion corner ornaments. The lining carries a size label of 7 1/4.

The pair of full dress epaulettes are of fine gilt bullion work with silvered fouled anchors and gilt naval buttons with Kings crown, marked left and right to the undersidesand with the makers details in gilt  “Moseley & Pounsford Ltd, 32 The Hard, Portsmouth”.

The sword belt is the regulation black and gilt example with twin slings, gilt clasp bearing a fouled anchor beneath a Kings crown within a wreath. The reverse is marked A.F.B. The leather is retailer-marked in gilt Moseley & Pounsford Ltd, 32 The Hard, Portsmouth”.

The set is housed in its original japanned metal transit case, specially designed for the storage and transport of a Royal Navy officer’s full dress accessories. The interior is purpose-built with a shaped central cradle and fixed holder for the epaulettes, which secure the pair neatly in position within the box. Beneath this section the interior is formed to accommodate the bicorn hat, the hat resting in the lower compartment and supported by the fixed buckle box which acts as a stand to keep the hat correctly positioned during transport. The lid is lined in red velvet, while the base retains its blue cloth lining, typical of such officer’s uniform cases. The exterior bears the trade badge of Matthews & Co. Ltd., Portsmouth, London & Devonport, a well-known naval outfitter supplying officers’ uniforms and accoutrements in the late Victorian and Edwardian period. The lid is further fitted with a brass name plate engraved “Hon. R. C. N. Gathorne-Hardy, R.N.”, identifying the original owner. The survival of the purpose-made case with its internal fittings greatly enhances the completeness of the group and provides an excellent period method of display for the bicorn and epaulettes.

Approx. MeasurementsBelt length: 97.5 cm approx. Box: 46.8 cm x 22.5 cm x 21 cm.

Historical Note:
This is a classic Royal Navy full dress grouping of the late Victorian to Edwardian period. Royal Navy full dress, consisting of bicorn, epaulettes and sword belt worn with the tailcoat, remained the established ceremonial uniform for commissioned officers until it was placed in abeyance during the First World War; it was later only very selectively revived.

Commander the Honourable Ralph Cecil North Gathorne-Hardy, RN (1876–1911) was a career Royal Navy officer whose service spanned the transition from the late Victorian fleet to the rapidly modernising Edwardian navy. Born on 19 March 1876, he was the fifth child and third son of John Stewart Gathorne-Hardy, 2nd Earl of Cranbrook, a prominent Conservative politician and member of one of the leading political families of the period. As the son of an Earl he was entitled to the style Honourable”, precisely as engraved on the name plate accompanying this uniform group.

He entered the Royal Navy in the usual manner for officers of his class as a cadet at HMS Britannia and appears in the Navy Lists as a Sub-Lieutenant in 1896, serving aboard Torpedo Boat No. 81, part of the flotilla of fast torpedo craft which formed an important element of late nineteenth-century naval tactics and coastal defence. Promoted Lieutenant on 31 August 1897, he continued in active service during a period of considerable expansion and technological change within the fleet. By the Edwardian era he was serving aboard the armoured cruiser HMS Euryalus, flagship of the North America and West Indies Squadron, a major overseas command responsible for imperial patrol, trade protection and naval presence across the Atlantic and Caribbean. He was promoted Commander on 31 December 1908, a senior commissioned rank attained only after long service and professional examination.

During the final phase of his career he was associated with service in the battleship HMS King Edward VII, the lead ship of the King Edward VII-class pre-dreadnought battleships completed during the naval expansion of the early twentieth century. Launched in 1903 and commissioned in 1905, these powerful ships formed part of the Home Fleet, representing the backbone of Britain’s battle fleet immediately before the revolutionary launch of HMS Dreadnought in 1906 transformed battleship design. Commander Gathorne-Hardy died unexpectedly on 30 December 1911, aged only thirty-five. Contemporary reports record his funeral at St George’s Church, Benenden, Kent, where sailors from King Edward VII acted as pallbearers, a mark of respect from his ship’s company.

The makers’ marks on the various components are consistent with Royal Navy officer’s private purchase dress equipment of the Edwardian period. The belt is gilt stamped Moseley & Pounsford Ltd, 32 The Hard, Portsmouth, a well-known naval outfitter supplying officers stationed at Portsmouth Dockyard, while the transit case bears the label of Matthews & Co. Ltd, Portsmouth, London & Devonport, another established firm specialising in naval uniform and equipment. The buckle is stamped A.F. & B.”, a marking commonly encountered on British military fittings of the late nineteenth and early twentieth century and generally attributed to Allen, Frearson & Bourne of Birmingham, a manufacturer known to have supplied gilt brass buttons, buckles and accoutrements to military outfitters and naval tailors including firms such as Gieves and Moseley & Pounsford. The presence of these makers’ marks is entirely consistent with a privately purchased Royal Navy full dress set of the Edwardian period.

*Condition*
An excellent and highly displayable named group overall. The bicorn remains a strong shape with attractive bullion work and retains its front loop and button, with minor general age wear, dust, minor surface handling and some wear to the lining. The epaulettes are a particularly handsome pair with bright bullion and good form; there is light age wear, minor rubbing and some small handling marks to the metal devices and buttons. The belt remains complete with slings and clasp, showing age, light creasing and service wear to the leather, but presents very well. The transit case is complete and named, with expected  exterior wear, surface oxidation, paint loss and scuffing from storage and use; the interior lining also shows age wear and replacement or later blue base material. The box no longer retains its lock/retainer. Please see photographs as part of the condition report.

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