*British, WW1, Royal Navy Lieutenant’s Full Dress Tailcoat Uniform Group, Tunic, Trousers & Belt, King’s Crown Buttons, Tailored by Gieves*
A very attractive and increasingly scarce Royal Navy officer’s full dress uniform group, comprising the regulation full dress tailcoat, matching trousers with gold side stripes, and the original dress belt with gilt naval buckle. The set presents very well overall and retains its correct King’s Crown buttons throughout, together with high-quality tailoring by the well-known naval outfitters Gieves, Matthews & Seagrove Ltd.
The coat is the regulation Royal Navy full dress tailcoat, the formal double-breasted officer’s pattern with long skirted tails to the rear, intended for wear with epaulettes, sword belt and bicorn hat on ceremonial and full dress occasions. The tunic is fitted with two vertical rows of gilt buttons bearing crowned anchor devices, a standing collar with gold lace band, and full dress cuffs with white panels, three buttons, and gold lace ornament. The cuff lace shows a single stripe with executive curl, denoting the rank of Lieutenant, Royal Navy.
The interior retains the quilted lining and tailor’s label for Gieve, Matthews & Seagrove Ltd, one of the principal naval outfitters of the late Victorian, Edwardian and First World War period. The accompanying belt is complete with its gilt buckle bearing crowned anchor within wreath and is stamped “By Special Appointment to His Majesty the King – Gieves Limited”, confirming officer-grade quality. The matching trousers are of dark cloth with broad gold side stripes to each outer seam, correct for Royal Navy officer full dress.
A very smart and original Royal Navy officer’s full dress uniform set dating to the late Edwardian / First World War era, privately tailored to regulation pattern and surviving complete with its belt and trousers, something increasingly difficult to find.
Approx. Measurements – Jacket shoulder width: 39.5 cm. Sleeve length: 65 cm. Belt length: 103 cm. Trousers waist: approx. 80 cm total. Trousers full length: 118 cm (rear measurement). Hem turn-up: approx. 5 cm.
Historical Note: Royal Navy officers were required to obtain their uniforms privately from approved naval outfitters, the most prominent being Gieves and associated firms such as Gieves, Matthews & Seagrove Ltd, together with other specialist London naval tailors. Although made to Admiralty regulations, these uniforms were individually tailored and are typically of very high quality.
The present coat is the regulation full dress tailcoat, the highest order of naval dress, worn with epaulettes, sword belt and bicorn hat for formal and ceremonial occasions. The cuff lace denotes the rank of Lieutenant, with the single stripe and executive curl correct for this grade.
Full dress uniform was placed in abeyance during the First World War from 1916 until the end of the conflict, meaning it was no longer worn for active service, which makes surviving wartime-period full dress uniforms comparatively scarce today.
*Condition* Overall a very presentable and original uniform group. The tunic cloth remains sound and displays well, with light age wear, lint, minor moth traces and small areas of rubbing consistent with storage and use. Collar lace shows age toning and wear. Interior quilted lining present but with significant tearing and loss beneath both underarm areas. Buttons appear matching and well retained. The belt remains attractive overall, with age wear, rubbing and minor tarnish to the gilt buckle and mounts. The leather backing shows age stiffening and cracking, and several of the suspension straps are broken or incomplete, with fraying, cracking and losses to the ends. Fabric covering worn in places consistent with age and use. The trousers remain structurally good, with long folded hems, but show wear and fraying to the gold side stripes, deterioration to the inner waistband lining, and a small hole / moth nip to the cloth. Please see photographs as part of the condition report.
